Lost Wax Casting

Also known as cire-perdue and precision or investment casting, is the traditional method for the faithful reproduction of intricate designs in carat gold jewellery. One of the most ancient of goldsmiths’ techniques, it has been used at least since the Egyptians in 1500 BC.


Left-hand column, top to bottom: master pattern set in a rubber
mould; removing the wax from the rubber mould; assembling
waxes on the tree; heating the tree in the investment can

Right-hand column, top to bottom: placing the hot mould into the
casting machine prior to casting; stripping ornaments off the
tree; the tree with ornaments removed; hand finishing
(Credit: World Gold Council)

To begin with, a master pattern is made by hand, usually in nickel silver or silver and rhodium plated (to prevent attack by sulphur from the rubber mould during vulcanizing). A feeder channel, known as a gate, is added to enable the molten gold to feed in during casting.

The master pattern is embedded in rubber, placed in a heated press and vulcanised. The rubber mould formed around the pattern is carefully cut away into two halves and the master pattern removed. The rubber mould is then injected with hot wax to make replicas of the master model. When set, the rubber mould is opened and the wax models removed.

Many wax models can be made from this rubber mould. These wax models are then assembled on a central wax ‘sprue’ to form a ‘wax tree’. This is placed into a metal cylinder or ‘flask’ and invested with a liquid slurry of a refractory powder (‘Investment plaster’) and allowed to set after vacuum degassing to remove air bubbles.

This flask is then inverted and heated in air or, preferably, steam to remove the bulk of the wax. It is then placed in a ‘burn out’ furnace and carefully heated slowly to a maximum of 750°C to fire the mould.

The molten gold is then poured into the mould cavity and mould filling encouraged by either centrifugal force or by gravity with vacuum assistance. Once cool, the mould is broken away to reveal a tree of golden articles, which are cut off, cleaned and polished to produce jewellery pieces.